Northern Norway

Jakub had a week off work, so gathered a few people together for a week in Northern Norway. We jumped in the van with Adrian and Dag and, leaving fairly late in the day, we were treated to a spectacular sunset before meeting Filippo and Bety near Oppdal.

Norwegian sunset – sunrise about 3 hours away.

The next morning we decided to run one of Adrian’s old local runs, the Gråura of the Driva. I think this is a river that could have gone either way for me. As it was, I loved it from start to finish, and it was one of my paddling highlights of the year. The gorge is amazing, the white water is amazing, the group could not have been any better and even thinking about it now, nearly 6 months later, makes me want to jump around with excitement. It was a day of paddling at the top end of my ability but doing it with confidence and, probably because of this, doing it well. It doesn’t always happen! Of course, I have no pictures, so you’ll just have to believe me!

Our next campsite was just outside of Hattfjelldal and also a beautiful spot.

Dag disinfecting after the Driva

Because we had paddled the Driva, we had to disinfect all of our kit to prevent the spread of a parasite that kills salmon. There was quite a bit of discussion about how useful and/or effective this treatment is but concluded that it wasn’t too much effort on our behalf, and if it helps then that is good!

The boys ran a river called the Unkerelva which is pretty much a section of fast, steep slides back into the lake. It looked like fun, but also a bit out of my league for the moment! After a trip to Hattfjelldal for some supplies, we discovered that there was another group staying at a campsite nearby. We decided to go and join them and see what they were up to.

Another campsite, another view.

This was a lovely campsite, but unfortunately we managed to fill the van with mozzies the first night, inviting them in with our tempting cooking smells!

The rivers in this area are beautiful but pretty difficult. The boys were really nice and generally did an easier run during the day, for which I would join them, and then go and do something harder and I would try to find a good vantage point for some photos! This works really well for me, because I find that the stress of new rivers is cumulative. I need a break in order to reset my brain to something sensible again. It also means that I get the opportunity to watch and hope that one day I’ll actually join them! A bit like this really.

One day…

Something to work up to.

All in all, it was a fantastic week. I met some really nice people, did some great kayaking and, of course, saw some amazing scenery. I’ll be back next year, for more kayaking and more adventuring!

Sea kayaking Nærøyfjord

I don’t normally get too excited about sea kayaking, but when my friend Lucie suggested we borrow some sea kayaks, pack a picnic and head for the day to a nearby fjord, it sounded like too nice an adventure to miss out on. The weather was predicted to be fine but cold, so we packed our thermals, dry suits and pogies and we were set.

Timing our departure for sunrise – not too difficult as it is currently about 8:45 – we packed up and set off. Nærøyfjord (pronounced kind of like nah-ray-fjord) is about one hour from Voss, so we had enough time to paddle until lunchtime and then turn around and head back again.

Lucie admiring the view

Setting off, the first thing we noticed were all the starfish! There were masses of them, all different sizes, all around the edge of the fjord. The fjord itself is beautiful. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is very narrow. The snow covered mountains rising up from the fjord are stunning!

Fjord and mountains

After a while paddling, we stopped for lunch. Lucie had brought along some Czech “boil in the bag” lunch. It wasn’t the normal unidentified beans and meat though, venison and dumplings anyone?

Cooking up some venison and dumplings

A coffee and some chocolate later, we were warmed up and ready to set off on our return trip. We passed a ferry doing the tourist trip and exchanged waves and mutual photographs but mainly admired the reflection of the snow capped mountains in the water that was as still as glass.

Ferry touring

It was a beautiful day out, and really accessible to anyone with warm clothes and a drysuit! This trip could easily be extended to last for a couple of days. We passed two campsites just in our daytime tour, one accessible only by boat, the other right next to a small town.

Reflections

Life in the Sjoa Valley – Part 1

I arrived to a flood in the Sjoa. The river was grey and very, very high. However, as in Valsesia, my arrival coincided with the annual Sjoa River Festival. Festivals are a fantastic way of meeting new friends and new paddle buddies. The Sjoa Festival offers guided descents of the local sections for paddlers who are either new to the area or looking to push themselves safe in the knowledge that someone is looking out for them. I joined a trip on the Utta led by the lovely Paula and Beth. This section is about grade 2 I think, but as it looked more like an inland sea to my “new to big volume” eyes, I was more than happy to start off easy. After a successful and fun trip I was feeling much better about the whole thing!

High water play run

The festival is based in Heidal, conveniently close to Strie Strommer, the local kayaking shop, with some people choosing to stay at the Sjoa Kayak Camp lower down the river. The festival is a great week, with lots of kayaking including a team race on the Playrun, the Ula Extreme Race and the Sweet Rumble. There is also coaching clinics and a fairly infamous party. More than anything else, the festival was a great opportunity to catch up with friends and make plenty of new ones. Many of whom I would continue to paddle with throughout the summer.

Unfortunately I don’t have many photos of the week, I was too busy having fun I guess!

No way? Norway!

So, my plan had been to head to Canada. It didn’t really turn out that way.

After Italy, I returned to Exeter for a week. My ticket was booked to Canada, all I was waiting for was a piece of paperwork to hand over at the border to prove I had obtained a working holiday visa. I wasn’t really stressed, these things usually work out. Two days before I was due to leave, the paperwork still hadn’t arrived. Stress levels rising somewhat. My friends Kelsey and Andrew’s wedding was two days after I arrived, that was the reason I had decided on Canada. I head to AS Watersports to distract myself with some kayaking chat… raise the option of going to Norway instead. All I’ve heard during the spring is how beautiful Norway is, and about its amazing whitewater. Liam is immediately enthusiastic – go to Norway!

The day before I’m due to fly to Canada I call the airline and cancel my ticket, call the man who wants to buy my car and tell him it’s no longer for sale, spend hours on the phone with the amazingly helpful Norwegian Embassy about visas and finally, sadly, call Kelsey to say I won’t make it to the wedding. My friends think I’m mad but, apart from the last minute rush, I’m not stressed. A year of adventure should contain some spontaneity I guess!

A day in Český Krumlov

What: Touristing

Where: 2 hours south of Prague, Czech Republic

When: June 2014

Driving from the southern border of the Czech Republic, north towards Český Krumlov, the first thing I am struck by is the amount of people playing on and in the river. There are rafts, canoes and kayaks along the whole length of the river loaded with people and what looks like camping gear. I am later told that this is a traditional Czech past time for families and groups of friends. I am jealous, it looks like great fun! I wonder why this doesn’t happen in Australia?

I arrive in Český Krumlov and stop by a hostel where the manager is picking cherries from the tree in the front garden. I decide Hostel Havana is the place for me when I’m told that accommodation includes as many cherries as I can eat. From the hostel it’s a short walk, across the bridge, into town.

Clutching my list of recommended places to eat I wander across to find some dinner. Eating out alone is one of the harder parts of travelling solo for me. It’s tempting to take a book and block out the world but I generally find that if I put the effort in to noticing what is happening around me then I enjoy the experience more. Also, other people are more inclined to be sociable if I’m not sending the “don’t talk to me” vibes that a book can create.

I head for the traditional Czech restaurant that is by the river and ask for a table. The waiter finds me a small table outside, but quickly comes back and asks if I’d like the best seat in the house. Well, of course! He sets me up at a little table, separate from the rest of the restaurant, that is overlooked by the castle and even has blankets supplied so I don’t get cold while I’m eating my trout. Perfect.

The next day I head back into town for some hard core touristing. Český Krumlov steals my heart a little bit. I hadn’t expected it to be so pretty and there is so much history. I plan to spend a couple of hours in town before heading off but end up spending the majority of the day. I wander around, drink coffee and just enjoy being a tourist. It’s not so adventurous, but it’s lovely.

 

Valsesia, Italy

What: Kayaking, hiking

Where: About an hour and a half northwest of Milan

When: May/June 2014

Every spring, a migration of sorts occurs. Kayakers from throughout Britain and beyond head to Valsesia, a collection of valleys in the Italian Alps known for their superb steep creeking. Many of these find their way to the campsite Il gato e la volpe where they recover from their journey with pizza and litros of beer.

After scaring myself silly here last year, I timed my visit this year to coincide with both the Valsesia River Festival and a Gene17 steep creeking course. The River Festival is held on the last weekend of May every year, with races, clinics and lots of socialising to be had. I arrived a day prior to the start of the festival, and had a week of coaching booked for the following week, so just stuck to the socialising at first. It was a good way to begin a holiday!

The week of coaching by Simon and Chris was great. The first day we did a section of the Sesia in order for the coaches to assess the level of the group. From there on, we practiced and practiced all sorts of skills which enable us to confidently (mostly) and safely run the rivers that we had all heard so much about; the Gronda, Sorba slides and the Egua. It was fantastic, and so much fun, to be running such beautiful rivers in such an amazing location.

Sorba slides – photo courtesy of Gene17

After the end of the course, I stayed on in Valsesia in order to be able to do some hiking. I have found on previous kayaking holidays that I become intimately acquainted with the rivers but miss out on the surrounding mountains. It was a great decision! The paths in the valleys are really well marked and the scenery is incredible. There is something about isolated summer hamlets that makes me feel fizzy with happiness.

Otra, surrounded by summer pastures and mountains